Fashion in Skopje

On the cover this month, Abe Ana Choveche.
Design by K.K.W

"Hard to Explain": Fashion in Skopje. By K.K.W

At this point fashion is still dominated by main-stream labels that are reasonably priced and the usual high-end labels whose names have become more well-known then the Gods of myth & legends. 

Designs by Marija Dacevska

However, especially in the last 10 years, there's been a considerable amount of designers silently or overtly challenging the status-quo. But change comes hard, the road to success is paved with obstacles, and a general public seemingly addicted to brand names. 

Design by Marija Dacevska

Originating in Skopje, Macedonia, and operating for some years now, "Hard to Explain" is one of the few alternative design labels in the city [& possibly in the region].And of course its one of the few (good) alternative labels. The name is actually for 3 designers; Katerina, Marija [sisters] & Katerina Mikrut. For now we're going to focus on the first 2. 

Marija's designs showcase pastel colors with, at times, a gossamer material for a ravishing demi-couture look. There's a strong feel of elegant and sensual evening wear; a look of the past redesigned for the future. Simplicity, clever use of materials and patterns with an occasional  wild touch.

Designs by Marija Dacevska [She's the beautiful 
lady in the blue dress].

Design by Katerina Popeva

Design by Katerina Popeva

Design by Katerina Popeva

Some of Katerina Popeva's creations have an androgynous feel to them. There's a sense of masculinity balancing the softness of the feminine. Earthy tones, muted colors with a splash of primary, along with accentuated shapes and patterns that give a sense of modernity. There's a distinct bit of the 80's in some of her designs, exuding a retro-touch, but the look seems from another time ahead of this one. Her designs exude a world of there own, the models like characters, in story told without words. Their out-of-place, and yet right at home in Skopje; ready to walk of the runway and onto the streets. All the power, intensity and allure of her personality is imparted to her designs. Without words they speak in volume.   

Design by Katerina Popeva

Design by Katerina Popeva

Leni von Geleva @ Hard to explain shop.

Katerina Popeva, @ Hard to explain shop.

Katerina Popeva, @ Hard to explain shop.

In The Old Bazaar sector, just outside the shop.

With so much passion, intensity, and dedication to their craft one can only imagine how far "Hard to explain" will go. Each designer's style & look is not only unique, but an extension of their personality along with their out-look. Hard to explain's potential for immense, further creativity, is intense. And hopefully lead to even greater design's that will extend from the boarders of their country, to Western Europe [& maybe elsewhere - NYC?]. If you would like to know more, go to:www.facebook.com/hard.explain.5?fref=ts&ref=br_tf, www.facebook.com/mdacevska?ref=br_tf.

'Art is the reason, art is the way'

Q&A: Melani Dimitrovska

S.P cover_Sept 2013.
Design by K.K.W, layout
by Aleksandar Ares.
Photo by Miss Dimitrovska

Fashion in Contemporary Macedonia: Q&A with Melani Dimitrovska. By K.K.W

This month we're focusing the spotlight on an amazingly charming little country, brimming with the possibility, of a new creative capital, in the Balkans. 

Melani Dimitrovska,
image courtesy of the artist.

SP:  When did you first decide to begin designing?

MD: I've been interested in identities of the people since I was in Primary school, but haven't engaged in designing at that time. I started drawing fashion illustrations and designing clothes when I stated my studies at the Faculty of Art and Design.

SP:  Especially in Europe, the influences of fashion design & styles is enormous - were there any that really moved you & effected your work?

MD: I usually work on a specific subject, specific theme and get inspired by researching the concrete thing. There are many styles [for example futurism] that effected my work but my style is independent. The form of my designs is usually inspired by architecture and industrial design. I get inspired by the designer Hussein Chalayan for using new materials in fashion, for my avant-garde designs.

Design by Melani Dimitrovska.
Fashion Week Bitola
Image courtesy of the artist.

Design by Melani Dimitrovska.
Fashion Week Bitola
Image courtesy of the artist.

SP:  A certain amount of fashion tends to appeal to bold people because of its artistic look - would you say your designs are more functional or creative?

MD: All of my designs are functional. Some of them are functional on a scene, some on ordinary day or night and others are designed to be functional on special occasions, It depends on who is wearing the creation. My target group is cool people. 

SP:  What's your favorite part of designing?

MD: My favorite part of designing is the realization  of the designs and their final product such as fashion photography or a fashion show.

Melani Dimitrovska.
Image courtesy of the artist. 

SP:  I know most of your designs are haute couture, but have you given any thought to a more practical, stylish, affordable line that could be mass-produced?

MD:  My designs are not Haute-Courtue. Haute-courtue means hand-crafted and custom-made clothes for each client with specific and expensive textile materials. If I have to classify my designs, I'll put them in Demi-courtue which is between haute-courtue and ready-to-wear. The clothes look like haute-courture but they are ready to wear. I would also like to try an create a stylish affordable line that could be mass produced.  

fashion collection: future warrior
design: melani dimitrovska
models: podium model agency
photography: istok avdich
make up artist: nebojsha peshevski
hair style: studio joy.
Image courtesy of the artist.

SP:  Having your designs shown in places like NYC would be wonderful I'm sure; if such a thing were possible, would you be interested?

MD:  Sure, thats a good idea. :) ))

SP: What do you think of the fashion scene in Skopje, does it need improvement & if so,  what can be done?

MD: In the last few years as "fashion-weeks" [Fashion Weekend] has started and because of the new faculties of fashion design,  the scene in Skopje started to grow. Many of the designers are more active than before. They are creating new lines and promote them on Fashion week together with fashion brands and designers from other countries. But there are still plenty of difficulties for the young designers in Skopje. There is a desperate need for conceptual shops, designers clothing shops, etc..

Design by Melani Dimitrovska.
Assembly Designfestival  Graz May 25th 2013.
Model: Luzia Stella Zinganel.
Image courtesy of the artist.

Melani Dimitrovska. Image courtesy of the artist.

She's arguably one of the best young designers in her country, and her region of the world. And though not many here in NYC know her name & designs, that will soon change. Melani's fantastic designs are the beginning of a major fashion house in contemporary Macedonia, that will last beyond this time. Cheers! 

If you would like to know more, go to:http://studiophoenix.blogspot.com/2012/03/melani-dimitrovska-haute-couture-in.html, or:https://www.facebook.com/melani.dimitrovska. "Art is the reason, art is the way"

Katerina Mikrut - Q&A

One of this months covers.
Design by Aleksandar Ares & layout by K.K.W.
Dress design by & photo courtesy of  Katerina Mikrut.

Interview with Katerina Mikrut [Mikka Design]. By K.K.W.

This month we're focusing the spotlight on an amazingly charming little country, brimming with the possibility of a new creative, cultural capital in the Balkans.   

Katerina Mikrut, in her design.
Photo courtesy of the artist

SP:  When did you start taking fashion design seriously?

KM: All my life I had a huge interest about fashion and its design. It was my hobby, but I never thought that I would ever work more seriously with fashion design. I come from Poland and I studied the Czech language. I came to Macedonia because of personal reasons, but my studies here are not worth much. That is the reason why I decided my hobby should change into a profession. By self-educating. So I can say that I'm working in fashion design two years already. My items are using the brand Mikka Design. I present them in two fashion events in Macedonia: Skopje fashion week and Bitola fashion week.

Design by Katerina Mikrut,
with model Milena Atanasova.
Photo by Leni von Geleva [NeuErotik].

SP: I'm sure influences can come from anywhere - does yours come from only the fashion world? 

KM: The fashion world is an area where the influence and inspiration comes from everywhere and end there. In my case, I got my inspiration from the everyday life, from the chaos in my thoughts, from the urban environment and sometimes from nature and very often from the material itself, and the experimenting with it. All these factors create a pressure which reflects in a piece of cloth.

Design by Katerina Mikrut,
with model Milena Atanasova.
Photo by Leni von Geleva [NeuErotik]

SP: Do you create for a certain kind of woman, or do you create and hope it appeals to certain women? 

KM: I am creating for women who has their own style, who want to be original and different from the crowd. Women who are brave and don't like the fashion trends. Women who express themselves trough clothes, who want to experiment with their style. I have the same needs and I always create clothes that I would wear myself. I am happy that a lot of women, regardless of their age found themselves in my clothes.

SP:  What's your favorite part of designing? 

KM:  I can't remember a single piece of cloth that I created identical as the original idea. Almost every time I improvise during creation and I am always changing something so that the clothes or the wearer would have a different look. That is my favorite part, I don't know where it would take me. The biggest pleasure is the creation itself and that's why almost all my pieces I create by myself. And of course the moment when the primer idea shows is very exciting.

Skirt by Katerina Mikrut,
with model Milena Atanasova.
Photo by Leni von Geleva

SP:  Is there a particular guideline or method you follow when it comes to design (form follows function, etc) ? 

KM:  Mostly it's the following the material. The material itself tells me what it wants to be. I just help. My favorite material are different types of knits and wool and the technique is knitting. The technique which is traditional and exists in most of the cultures is interpretative in a modern way. The knitted piece of clothes are 80% of my work. In my design very important role is the function of the clothes( mostly I create everyday clothes). Very important aspect is the protection of the environment and that's why some part of my design are recycled designs. Those pieces of clothes I create only for myself and the closest people around me. 

SP: The fashion world is known for being shallow - how do you stay true to yourself and stay deep against such a thing? 

KM: It is very easy. Through my design I express myself. Of course I wouldn't create something that I don't like, that wouldn't be me and I won't do that. The question is how much this can be art and can we make it for living in this Balkan mentality and conditions. Yet, if I have to create something that does not agree with my opinions, I would choose other job.

SP:  What do you think of the fashion scene in Skopje (& Macedonia as a whole), does it need improvement - and if so what can be done? 

KM: Its enough to walk on the streets of Skopje (not talking about other cities in Macedonia) to notice that this city has to learn a lot about fashion. Many of the young designers has difficulties earning money because of the economical situation. According to me, the things that are missing here besides the main fashion events are the alternative ones. They are here but not enough the same as other fashion portals, blogs..etc All of this is still developing and we will see when it will be on a European level.

Dress design by Katerina Mikrut, with photo by Ani Dimi.

Katerina Mikrut, in her design.
Image courtesy of the artist. 

If you would like to know more, go to:https://www.facebook.com/katerina.mikrut. "Art is the reason, art is the way".

Milena Atanasova - Q&A

One of this months covers.
Design by Aleksandar Ares & layout by K.K.W.
Dress design by Katerina Mikrut.
Photo by Leni von Geleva [NeuErotik]
Model: Milena Atanasova

Interview with Milena Atanasova [design from Atami]. By K.K.W

This month we're focusing the spotlight on an amazingly charming little country, brimming with the possibility of a new creative, cultural capital in the Balkans.

Milena Atanasova - designer & model.
Dress by Katerina Mikrut,
photo by Leni von Geleva[NeuErotik]

SP: When did you start taking fashion design seriously?

MA: Art, in general, was always present in my life thanks to my closest family members, hence the love for it. The games in which I enjoyed the most were always somehow related to art. Later on the games turned to be a true conscious love and a way of life. So, normally, this love brought me to Fiorentina academy, Academia Italiana, where I graduated in fashion design, and my story finally got a serious character. 

SP: Influences come from everywhere, but does yours come from only the fashion world?

MA: Fashion comes from people. It is a personal visual expression. Fashion has an unbreakable connection with people and society. So, I get my inspiration from every corner, street, questions, answers, people, feelings… In fact, this is the real challenge, all those pictures, emotions, expressions, to be realized into clothes, into something that will tell a lot about us, about our story, like a non-verbal messenger.

Logo for Milena's design studio.

SP: Would you say your designs are only for certain women?

MA: Fashion does not mean straighten out; it is a way of living. My creations are for people who are awakened and aware of themselves.

SP: What's your favorite part of designing, and do you prefer some materials over others?

MA: What I love the most is the planning process, the idea creation, the research. When its about the fabrics, I prefer to use natural materials letting the skin breathe. I like different textures and cuts that give more comfort.

Design by Milena, with model
Miljana Atanasova. 

SP: As far as "a look" (which could be considered a style) would you say your designs strive for this while being open to change?

MA: Designing collections is more personal and of course, it is more related to what I have to say, while designing for one particular client is related with his/her personality and needs, as seen through my eyes. So I wouldn’t say it is all about one particular style. It is very personal; it is about my point of view on things.

SP: As a gorgeous model, how did you end up involved in this aspect of fashion?

MA: My career as a model started very spontaneously actually, first I was modeling for friends when necessary.  As a former ballerina, I guess I kept the theatricality and the intimate identifying with the “role”, but also as a fashion designer I know what exactly I want from the models, I know how important this role is, as well as the importance of wearing the outfit in the real way – to give  character to it, to make it alive. This was, most probably, the reason for developing this aspect of my story about fashion.

Milena Atanasova, in a design by
Katerina Mikrut. Photo by
Leni von Geleva [NeuErotik]

SP: The fashion world can be a shallow place (for a model & designer), how do stay "deep" & meaningful in all of this?

MA: Honesty is the best policy. That is the most important. Especially when you observe everything around us and inside us in an honest, pure manner. Individuality will always be en vogue. This might sound like a cliché, but it is the only way to be true to yourself and all around you.

SP: What do you think of the fashion scene in Macedonia, does it need improvement - and if so what can be done?

MA:  Macedonia is quite young in this field. Macedonian fashion scene is growing more and more each day, but I think it needs a lot of hard work. After all, we are talking about a very small market and low awareness about fashion. I think this is the key! It requires a lot of work to achieve cultural and fashion awareness. Macedonia contains lot of culture in its code/ genes, all we have to do is put little light on it.

Milena Atanasova for Studio Atami.
Photo courtesy of the artist.

Milena Atanasova. Photo courtesy of the artist.

If you would like to know more, go to:https://www.facebook.com/studioATAMI. "Art is the reason, art is the way"

Alfred Julius

Original photo, text,
and layout by K.K.W.
On the cover, Valerie Kuehne,
Felix Morelo & Glenn Cornett.

"Summer Jukebox" via Alfred Julius. Article by K.K.W

In an era marked by "dress-down" casual thats the norm for almost all aspects of social life today, its refreshing to see that the bow-tie is still in-style and has meaning and a place in fashion.  

Image courtesy of Alfred Julius.

The bow-tie(s) in question is the crux of Alfred Julius, founded by Chike Atu who is also the head designer. A.J

is an amazing men's luxury accessory line paying homage to the grandfather of the founder. 

An aside from their dashing bow-ties (one of which was worn by actor Terrance J at the most recent BET awards) A.J has recently put together a collection of tunes "that express the summer mood for the Alfred Julius man", entitled 'Summer Jukebox'.

It ranges from 1945, when Alfred Julius was 26 years old, up until 2012 where the founder (his grandson) Chike Atu is currently 26 years old. Also with it is an accompanying bow-tie that in its way, expresses the mood of it all, through the Alfred Julius look and style.

If you would like to know more, go to:www.alfredjulius.com, or to listen to the 'summer jukebox, go to:http://soundcloud.com/alfredjulius/sets. "Art is the reason, art is the way."  

Image courtesy of Alfred Julius.

Actor Terrence J, image courtesy of Alfred Julius.